Burberry's Autumn/Winter 2019 collection, showcased during London Fashion Week, marked a significant turning point for the heritage brand. Riccardo Tisci, newly appointed as Chief Creative Officer, presented his debut ready-to-wear collection, a highly anticipated event that generated considerable buzz within the fashion world and beyond. This article delves into the intricacies of the Burberry AW19 show, analyzing the runway looks, beauty elements, model casting, and critical reception to provide a comprehensive overview of this pivotal moment in Burberry's history.
Burberry Fall 2019 Ready-to-Wear: A Fusion of Heritage and Modernity
Tisci's vision for Burberry AW19 was a bold juxtaposition of the brand's rich heritage and a distinctly modern, sometimes rebellious aesthetic. Gone were the overtly preppy tropes that had, at times, defined the brand in recent years. Instead, Tisci offered a collection that felt both familiar and strikingly new, a masterful balancing act that showcased his understanding of Burberry's DNA while simultaneously injecting it with his own unique signature.
The collection's color palette was a key element in establishing this balance. Earthy tones – deep browns, rich creams, and muted greens – paid homage to Burberry's classic aesthetic, grounding the collection in a sense of timeless elegance. However, these were punctuated by vibrant pops of color: electric blues, fiery reds, and striking yellows, adding a contemporary edge and a sense of youthful energy. This interplay of classic and contemporary extended to the fabrics used. Traditional Burberry checks were reimagined in unexpected ways, appearing on everything from tailored coats to flowing dresses, often overlaid with contrasting textures or patterns. Leather, lace, and sheer fabrics were also incorporated, adding layers of complexity and visual interest.
Silhouettes were equally diverse. Sharp tailoring, a hallmark of Tisci's previous work at Givenchy, featured prominently, evident in impeccably structured jackets, impeccably crafted trousers, and exquisitely tailored trench coats – a Burberry signature reinterpreted with a modern, sometimes androgynous sensibility. However, these structured pieces were balanced by softer, more fluid silhouettes: flowing maxi skirts, romantic blouses, and delicate dresses, showcasing a versatility that appealed to a broad spectrum of tastes. The overall effect was one of controlled chaos, a deliberate blending of contrasting elements that created a collection both cohesive and surprisingly eclectic.
Key pieces from the collection included the reimagined trench coat, featuring updated cuts and unexpected details like exaggerated shoulders or asymmetrical closures. The signature Burberry check was recontextualized, appearing in unexpected places and in unconventional forms. Knitwear played a significant role, with oversized cardigans and chunky sweaters offering a comfortable, yet stylish counterpoint to the more formal pieces. Finally, the collection showcased a series of striking evening gowns, demonstrating Tisci's ability to create both everyday wear and high-fashion pieces with equal skill.
Burberry AW19: Everything You Need To Know About the Runway Show
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